Festival Fairs

Temples were often a focus of trading activities in old China, as business people tried to take advantage of the frequent comings and goings of worshippers.

At the time of the lunar New Year, these activities expanded to include all manner of special commercial and entertainment events, giving birth to the miao hui, or temple fair.

Temple-going for the rest of the year may have declined to minimal levels, but for the duration of the Spring Festival the most popular of these fairs still pull the crowds.

Much of what is on offer is fairly tatty stuff that draws regretful sighs from older Beijingers -- who will cheer up if you give them the chance to tell you how much better it was in the old days -- but around the fringes are some sights of authentic interest, especially for lovers of the slightly bizarre.

The best examples are the many small-scale circus acts that come in from rural areas. For the price of a few yuan you may be treated to nothing better than cheap magic tricks with the wires showing, but you may also get "lucky" and see a man swallow a live snake and then pull it back up again.

Performers who put snakes up their nose and then pull them out of their mouth are also common. Some of the qigong practitioners can also be genuinely impressive. I once saw one run his hands the length of a red-hot chain without any apparent ill effects (the cloud of vapor that arose left little doubt that he had really been in contact with the metal).

Otherwise, the fairs are mainly an excuse to mingle with the crowds and check out how the locals enjoy themselves, trying out every imaginable kind of street food. Strolling, eating, and taking photos are really what it's all about. So wrap up warm, pack your camera, and take some kids - they'll love it (especially the snake).

Temple Fairs

Ditan Park (ditan gongyuan)

This is one of the city's busiest temple fairs. The park is the site of the altar where sacrifices were formerly offered to the earth, and this year's fair will open with a performance imitating the Qing Dynasty sacrificial ceremony. Activities and events during the fair will include folk performances, fashion shows and a food street.

Yonghegong subway, bus 13, 116, 62 for the south gate; trolley bus 104, 108, or bus 27, 358, 119, 407, 18, 328, 803 or 912 for west gate. Also Andingmen subway.

Ticket price: 10 yuan for individuals.

Longtan Park (longtan hu)

Snacks, folk dances, shops, sports grounds and book markets will be laid out around the lake in Longtanhu Park.

Date: February 4-10

Admission: 2 yuan.

Bus: 116, 60, 6, 352, 12, 807.

Grand View Garden (daguan yuan)

This served as the set for the TV series "A Dream of Red Mansions," based on the classic Chinese novel of the same name. A parade of the imperial family and the "twelve beauties" as described in the novel, will be the main attractions here.

Alternatively, do some shopping at the book market and Beijing folk arts and crafts market, try out local snacks or visit the "strangely-shaped" stones exhibition.

Bus: 351, 122, 59, 61

Time: Feb. 5-10

Admission: 40 yuan.

White Cloud Temple (bai yun guan)

This quiet Daoist Temple will be turned into a busy marketplace during spring festival. Besides Beijing folklore performances, traditional activities such as "touching the three godly monkeys" at the gate and riding the donkeys attract crowds each year.

Date: Feb. 5-10

Admission: 10 yuan (individual)

Bus: 114, 302, 817, 419, 41, 19, 40

Dongyuemiao (dongyue miao)

Besides the routine snacks and folk dances, visitors can obtain a reversed character "Happiness" from Buddha,the symbol of good luck in the new year.

Date: Feb. 5-10

Admission: 10 yuan

Bus: 112, 109, 101 and get off at Shenlujie

Shijingshan Amusement Park (shijingshan youleyuan)

Date: Feb. 4-11

Admission: 10yuan

How to get there: Subway, get off at Bajiao Recreational Center (Ba jiao you le yuan). Or bus 337, 389, and get off at Jingyuan Lukou.

Hongluo Temple (hongluo si)

Buddhist ceremony, snack street, folklore performances, painting and calligraphy exhibitions.

Feb. 4-9

Admission: 30yuan.

Liangxiang Temple Fair

Ancient bell-striking ceremony, folk dances

Feb. 1-6

Admission: 5yuan

Location: Haotian Park, Liangxiang, Fangshan District

How to get there: Bus 917 at Tianqiao

Yaoqiao Yu, Xinchengzi Xiang, Miyun County

Join a local peasant's family to celebrate the Spring Festival. Fireworks, grinding beancurds, paste spring couplets.

Feb.1-March 5

How to get there: Coach from Dongzhimen to Miyun Town, then change for minibus to Yaoqiao Yu, Xinchengzi Xiang

Words: Mick Jones

Photos: Fu Dongming, Guo Yingjun, Jia Dequan, Liu Xin, Niu Xiwu, Tian Zhimin, Wang Shuxian