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Superlative Sushi by Jonathan Noble I have always been plagued by the following conundrum: Since Japan is China's geographic and cultural neighbor, why doesn't Beijing possess an abundance of fine Japanese dining venues? Some cite the difficulty of obtaining fresh ingredients; others mention the tribulations of training Chinese chefs in the art of preparing Japanese cuisine. Harbour Plaza's "Miyako" restaurant, however, has overcome these obstacles to offer an unbeatable dining experience. Harbour Plaza and Resorts took over management of the Parkview Plaza last year. After extensive refurbishing, the hotel reopened as the Harbour Plaza Beijing in April this year. The Japanese restaurant in the former Parkview Plaza did not have a very good reputation, says Morio Sakayori, the Miyako's manager. He concedes that building a reputation for Miyako will be challenging, but proudly says that many Japanese families have already adopted the Miyako as their family restaurant. The Miyako embodies the proverbial Asian balance of yin and yang. The decor is characterized by natural materials and colors: paper windows, wooden tables, and stone floors. The naturalness of the ambiance is offset by the highly stylized movements of the waiters and the elegant arrangement of the dishes. The special lunch box arrives containing many small dishes. Bedazzled by the assortment, it takes a few seconds to determine which sauces belong to which dishes. Sakayori explains that he and his staff understand that eating Japanese food can be on the complicated side. Fluent in Chinese and English, they are very willing to assist their customers. The dishes in the special lunch box include tempura (deep-fried vegetables and shrimp), pickled vegetables, miso soup, grilled fish, boiled vegetables with egg and fishcakes, sashimi (raw fish), fresh fruit, and rice. One reason I enjoy Japanese cuisine so much is because the variety of dishes and flavors keeps the palate in a state of constant rapture. When eating Japanese food, one must be sure to savor the complementary nature of the flavors by eating one bite from one dish and then rotating to the next one. The set lunch includes many of the staples of Japanese cuisine, and there is no better word to describe the fare than "perfect." In addition to the special set meals for lunch and dinner, the grilled specialties (robatayaki) are strongly recommended. The grilled king prawn "miyako style" is a special creation of the restaurant's chefs and one of the most popular dishes on the menu. The Miyako's sushi bar also offers a wide variety of sushi and sashimi, including the succulent toro (prime tuna fillet) and salmon. Other favorites include beef sukiyaki and noodle dishes such as tempura udon (thick noodles in broth with deep-fried vegetables and shrimp). Finish the meal off with the home-made green tea ice cream. Each weekend for lunch and dinner, the Miyako also features the only Japanese buffet in Beijing. Including more than 15 items at a mere 148 yuan (children 5 and under eat for free; 12 and under are half price), the dinner buffet is unbeatable in terms of selection and value. For reservations, call 010-64362288 ext. 2636. Harbour Plaza is located at 8 Jing Tai West Road in Chaoyang District, Beijing. |
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