Shopping for Silks

China was synonymous with "silk" long before anyone had heard of the Great Wall or tea. No other country in the world is as advanced in silkworm-raising and silk weaving as China, which first discovered the potential of the material 5,000 years ago.

The history of silk has always been intricately interwoven with Chinese history. The earliest maps of China found in a Han Tomb in Hunan Province were drawn on silk and are believed to be over 2,000 years old. Silk has also been part of some of the most important facets of Chinese cultural heritage, such as the calligraphy and embroidery traditionally executed on silk.

The best silk embroidery work dates from the Ming and Qing dynasties, when the four schools of embroidery -- Suzhou, Hunan, Guangdong and Sichuan -- took shape. Each has its own special features. For example, embroidery from Suzhou stresses detail and elegance, while the Guangdong style is characterized by bright colors and decorative illustration. Sichuan embroidery emphasizes pattern composition and vividness; that of Hunan specializes in assimilating the techniques of Chinese painting.

Real fine hand embroidery work is rarely seen in big pieces such as quilt covers and long dresses. The commonest silk embroidery work is called xiu pian -- it can be found on cushion covers and the like in most hotel shops and specialized craft shops.

Silk carpet in China is relatively cheap. Prices vary according to size and weaving density (measured by lines, or dao, the number of which varies from 100 to 600). All silk carpet is made by hand. There are two good carpet stores in the south entrance of Silk Alley (xiushui jie).

How to distinguish between real and fake silk

The simplest way is by touch. Real silk is like real pearls: the fake ones are very slippery, the genuine ones let their grain be felt. For raw silk a piece of raw silk material will burn to ashes whereas artificial silk will become sticky.

How to keep your silk clothes looking their best

Always wash in mild liquid detergent in cold water, gentle cycle or hand wash. Some drops of vinegar in the final rinse will revive faded colors. Do not dry in direct sunlight. Iron at moderate temperatures -- best results are obtained when the item is still slightly damp. One last tip: iron in the same direction as the fiber and on the reverse side.

Where to buy

The best-known spot is Silk Alley. More than 200 shops lined along the narrow street just south of American Embassy cater especially to the needs of foreigners. Larger sizes aren't a problem. Vendors tend to give foreigners better prices than Chinese shoppers. But bear one thing in mind: always bargain!

The biggest specialized silk shop in Beijing is probably the Yuanlong Silk Store, located 200 meters west of the south entrance of the Temple of Heaven . Here you can find a wide variety of silk fabrics and products both old and new, traditional and modern. On the second floor are all kinds of silk fabrics including spun silk, satin, brocade, pongee and tussah. Generally speaking thicker silk is more expensive. Silk underwear is also available. Like cotton, it is believed to be healthy and comfortable for the skin. On the first floor there is a hall specially dealing in silk carpets. A bigger hall sells silk garments, scarves, neckties, cushion covers and other embroidery work.

There are two places to buy cheap but good silk fabrics. One is the Rui Fu Xiang Silk Store, the city's oldest silk store, which is in the old commercial area south of Qianmen. At Rui Fu Xiang there are several kinds of qipao and traditional Chinese style clothes for men. This store is also well-known for making such clothes to order. The Beijing Silk Store nearby doesn't offer as many services as Rui Fu Xiang, but some of prices are better.