Miss Wu's Wild Ride

by Wu Runmei

Cycling the rapids in the "bicycle kingdom" can be such a rush. It's also a simple and practical way of getting close to the city, its people and their way of life.

Your Beijing This Month tour team has selected what we regard as an ideal south-north route to get to know the city a little better, savor its changing moods and note its historical landmarks. But be warned: This journey is not for the faint-hearted.

Along the way, feel free to stray from the chosen path, but just don't go blaming us if you get lost down a labrynth of hutongs. Equip yourself with a map, a bike with real brakes and a basketful of derring-do.

Head for adventures you've only ever dreamt about while dozing in a taxi or a tour bus. All in all, this route took a long, lazy day to complete and then ride home. It could all be done in a couple of hours really, but don't tell anyone back at the office.

Often seen, seldom sought

People pass by Dongbianmen Corner Tower along the East Second Ring Road in their tens of thousands every day, but seldom does anyone stop to check it out.

Constructed in 1436, this gray, lean tower served as a military fortification for the southeast corner of the old city wall, with 144 windows for archers to shoot at would-be invaders.

Not as glamorous as the Qianmen Gate, this once-proud edifice now stands alone in a sea of cars, trains and bicycles. A tall flight of stairs leads to the top. Two rusty cannons and some broken stone slabs sit in silent companionship. The staff seemed surprised to see visitors on a drizzly gray day and received us warmly.

The musty innards of the tower no longer echo with the conversations of Ming and Qing Dynasty soldiers; it now houses exhibitions. Weird stones, some quite beautiful, are displayed on the first floor. Ascending the creaky wooden stairs, we found a fascinating exhibition.

Grainy photos and yellowing pamphlets in glass cases contain rare insights into the city's pre-Communist past. Unfortunately, you need a patient Chinese friend to translate. One picture in particular displays the tower about 100 years ago, looking much the same as it did when we had approached it earlier from the outside. Crowds of braided men dressed in long gowns at market suddenly made it clear how quickly this century has changed the capital.

Watch out

Departing the tower, we soon entered a more challenging street, Chongwenmennei Dajie. This narrow street was crammed with vehicles. We concentrated on nothing but cycling during the next 10 minutes and then found ourselves riding more safely down East Chang'an Avenue.

Park people

Jingshandongjie is a neat, peaceful street along the east side of Jingshan Park (Prospect Hill Park). Outside the park walls are narrow green expanses. Elderly men and their songbirds in cages swap stories and cigarettes by stone benches. Further on, barbers crop mops for 10 yuan at the street corner.

Sound of Silence

Leaving the quiet places behind, we kept north and dived into another busy street. Stores and restaurants line both sides of Di'anmen Dajie. The Wufu Cha Yi Guan (teahouse) lies at the east side of the road. Although rather expensive (55-200 yuan), this is a quiet refuge to relax and savor performances of the traditional Chinese tea ceremony.

The gigantic Gulou (Drum Tower) splits the street in two at the north: One heads northwest, down Gulou Xijie; the other east down Gulou Dongjie. Opting for the road less travelled, we turned left at the fork and reached the famous Hutong Tour Area. On seeing the friendly pedicabs darting toward Gulou, we turned instead towards the Zhonglou (Bell Tower). This tower, built on a tall brick base, was completely reconstructed in 1748 after a fire. Zhonglou seems simpler, slimmer than Gulou.

At the back of the building, we found the entrance. The dark, steep tunnel-like stairway provided fun for otherwise-tiresome climbing. The upper landing is a perfect place to view the hutongs and courtyards below, and far less crowded than Gulou opposite. A huge bell hangs in the center. The retired bell used to serve as timekeeper of the city. It rang at seven o'clock every evening until 1924.

You made it!

Heading northwest along Gulou Xijie for 20 minutes, we arrived at the Deshengmen Lijiaoqiao (overpass).

This corner tower served much the same function as our first stop. Interesting old photos of the old city wall and gates, its giant gate padlock and ancient weapons sat on dusty display. On top of the wall were benches where we stretched our aching limbs and considered returning next week for a Shichahai picnic. Everything closed down within a couple of minutes at 4pm. So we descended the tower, bid our goodbyes and rode home into the gathering dark.