Riverside Picnic Retreat
Sleep with the fish in Rainbow Trout Valley

Beijing's most attractive weekend trip is just a short drive north of the city.On the far side of the satellite town of Huairou lies a beautiful valley that winds through a precipitous pass guarded by a crumbling, zero-tourist section of the Great Wall.

It's farming country, but the local peasants have cottoned on to the good fortune that brought their families to this area.Many have given up traditional agriculture to focus on serving the growing numbers of wealthy weekenders who drive up here to enjoy the fresh air, dramatic landscapes , and easy fishing.

The road to riches here is paved with rainbow trout -the business of choice of anyone with the land and money to put in a couple of fish pools.The more adventurous have also constructed guesthoues.The less well off of trade dangerous but exiting fireworks, local nuts and mushrooms and horse rides. An itinerant camel also offers rides to anyone with a strong stomach (it's not called "the ship of the desert"for nothing) and a head for heights.

There are at least 30 trout fisheries along the valley floor, but only one in our address book.It's more than halfway along,but patience is rewarded by the Hengquan Club.In the first place, it has the killer location-right under the Great Wall. Visitors should note that climbing the Wall here can only be done with considerable risk to life and limb.BTM does not recommend it. Really. Second, the club offers very attractive accommodation for peaceful overnight stays.

Trout is 2o yuan per jin, or about 40 yuan a kilo-the same as everywhere else in the valley. Fish out as many as you want, then choose between having them barbecued with hot pepper and cumin, wrapped in foil and stuffed with tomatoes, onions and ginger steamed, or cooked hong shao style, which is basically steamed, but with more flavor. The foil-wrapped option is the best, if you take our advice.