The Tao of Tea

By Simon Andrew

If wine is like poetry, then tea is like philosophy, according to the part-owner of a tea shop nestled among old-style Beijing streets near the west gate of the Imperial Palace.

While the drinking of alcohol creates an atmosphere that is romantic and expressive, the drinking of tea encourages people toward more serious contemplation, said Zhang Jie while performing a Chinese-style tea ceremony. Zhang, an elegant 25-year-old lady, owns the Purple Vine Teahouse along with her Taiwanese boyfriend, Chen Fuhua.

The Chinese tea ceremony is known as gong fu cha as it requires considerable effort (gong fu) to perform the elaborate process, which is restricted to the preparation of oolong tea. The Chinese tea ceremony does not involve the ceremonial details or strict adherence to procedural rules of its Japanese counterpart. However, as my Chinese friends are quick to point out, the Japanese art of drinking tea is another example of an ancient Chinese practice that was adopted by Japanese people in former times. Zhang said this style of serving and drinking tea is a custom that dates to the Qing Dynasty but is now enjoying a revival in Taiwan.

Visitors to the Purple Vine are greeted by traditional Chinese ornaments. Red lanterns hang from the edge of the roof at the entrance, and two small stone lions stand guard in front of a large, red wooden doorway. Painted on the wooden mantle above the doorway is a depiction of Yao Di, a benevolent farmer and later king who came to be known as the god of tea. As the legend goes, Yao spent much of his time traveling through the countryside, picking and tasting many different sorts of plants and herbs to identify which ones could provide medicinal benefits to people. One day he collapsed from the ill effect of a poisonous plant. But luckily, as he lay unconscious, a drop of water fell off the leaf of a nearby tea tree and dropped into his mouth, curing his illness. After his recovery, Yao spread the benefits of tea far and wide.

Tea was originally considered to be more important for its medicinal properties than for its flavor. According to Zhang, it was thought that drinking tea was effective in clearing the eyes and preserving beauty, as well as helping to cure high blood pressure and 100 other illnesses. As a regular tea drinker, I am unable to confirm any of these claims. I can attest, however, to the pleasant sense of refreshment gained from drinking Chinese tea.

The teahouse's customers consist of a wide range of middle-class Beijing locals, overseas residents and visitors, and lovers wishing to build their own moments of intimacy away from the hustle and bustle of the outside city. The teahouse offers a sanctuary for those wishing to enjoy a peaceful respite from the pressures and deadlines of work and the high-paced entertainment of Beijing's bars and nightclubs.

Add: 2, Nanchang Jie, Xicheng District
Open: Noon-2am daily

How to gong fu

Oolong tea should be brewed for between 30 and 45 seconds to produce the best flavor.

At Zhang's teahouse it is poured into dainty, cylindrical cups and small round cups are placed upside down over the top. With thumb and forefinger, the two cups are inverted so that the small cup is on the bottom.

The cylindrical cup is then raised while being gently twisted to leave the small cup containing aromatic tea. The fragrance should be tested before tasting by placing the nose over the rim of the cylindrical cup and twisting the cup to persuade the aroma to spiral upward.

The small cups are never filled to the brim the space left at the top of the cup is left to signify friendship. People are meant to meet over tea to enjoy each other's company, rather than to enjoy the sensual pleasure of drinking tea alone. The guest is expected to take three discrete sips of the tea; the number corresponds to the three mouth radicals that form the Chinese character for "taste."